New Taste of Modern Japanese

Posted on January 13, 2014


Kisso means ‘good news’ in Japanese; the perfect description of the latest edition for a restaurant of 20 years. It’s strikingly contemporary with the use of light wood sliding panels to divide the room yet balanced with the warm and cosy elements such as the row of earthenware pots rising high above the wood flooring. A calibrated buzz resonates from the main dining area, in the vicinity of Kisso’s sushi bar and even into its private tatami room.

This new concept was created by the much travelled Chef Shinsuke Yonekawa. It was while he was working on a cruise liner that he became aware of the truly unique qualities of Japanese cuisine. Working as a Sous Chef at Hal Yamashitta, one of Tokyo’s finest contemporary restaurants, taught him exciting and new ways to express himself through his food.

His own restaurant, Toki, in the Philippines, won “Best Restaurant Award” by Philippines Tatler Magazine and received a Gold Award in the USA Rice Federation Sushi. With that portfolio he was identified as the culinary talent to oversee the re-conceptualizing of Kisso,

“Having previously re-conceptualised three Japanese restaurants in Japan and one in the Philippines,” says Chef Shinsuke. “Here I was given the freedom to design the kitchen and to create my seasonal menu that changes based on the availability of ingredients freshly imported from Japan. I even selected the plates on which my food will be presented. Everything that comes from my kitchen is made from fresh raw ingredients.”

His Yuzu Gin Tonic is a refreshing martini-style interpretation of the classic gin and tonic, yuzu infused dry gin, tonic water and yuzu juice.

I started with his original special Carpaccio of salmon, ebi (prawns), tuna and mackerel dressed in crushed cashew nuts and flaky deep fried wonton wrappers mixed with yuzu and miso sauce. Carpaccio too often is a one dimensional dish, but not here. A bed of shredded salad raises the fish up from the plate to give height to enhance the presentation.

His grilled eel and foie gras roll may look simple on the plate yet complex in its preparation. He puts a shiny glaze on the eel by reducing a mirin and homemade soy sauce by 50% which he then brushes onto the surface of the eel before charcoal grilling. He uses a combination of tamarind, mangrove and eucalyptus woods, and each burn at a different rate making it perfect for cooking. “Charcoal grilling adds flavour,” he says. “It retains heat which allows us to cook faster to keep the meat moist.” The combination of eel and foie gras is a contemporary innovation typical of his newfound perspective to Japanese cuisine. His sushi is made with Japanese rice that has just been started to grow in Chiang Rai by a Japanese farmer. This rice has authentic taste and texture with a reduced carbon footprint.

Next, a delightful Japanese Wagyu beef shabu shabu salad garnished with sesame and ponzu dressing. “I used ponzu in this dish as its sour flavour helps to refresh the palate.”

The main course was charcoal grilled Canadian snow fish with a four mushroom, shitake, eringi, enoki and shimeji butter sauce. The fish had the perfect flaky texture and the sauce an ideal marriage with the taste of the fish.

To complete the meal, one of the chefs recommended plum wine jelly with premium ginjoushu sake sorbet.

A harmonious combination of modern flavours and decor for the next generation dining experience.

Kisso Japanese Restaurant

8th Floor
Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok
259 Sukhumvit Soi 19

Tel 0-2207-800

Posted in: Bangkok